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How To Make Kaiser Rolls By By Dennis R Weaver
Want to impress your family and friends at the next gathering? Serve sandwiches on Kaiser Rolls. They’ll look so professional--like they came from the bakery. You don’t have to tell them how easy they were. If you can make dinner rolls, you can make Kaiser Rolls. You can make Kaiser Rolls out of any lean bread dough but if you would like to make your rolls from a mix, we suggest using our Sunday Dinner Rolls. Simply leave the butter out and add another half-tablespoon of water. A Kaiser Roll is merely a lean roll, specially shaped, and baked in a steamy oven to make it crusty. Choose a recipe or mix for a lean bread dough—or leave the butter or oil out of the recipe. Make per the directions for rolls including letting the dough rise the first time. Here’s how to shape the rolls: Step 1: Cut a piece of dough off about twice what you would use for a dinner roll. (We scale the dough at 3.5 ounces for our sandwich rolls.) Roll the dough out into a rope about eight inches long. Step 2: Form a simple over-hand knot in the center of the dough. Leave the knot loose; do not try to draw it tight. You will have two protruding ends a couple inches long. Step 3: Take one of the ends and continue it around the rope and push it down through the center hole. It should look like the picture to the right. Step 4: Take the other end of the dough, go around the rope, and push the end up through the center hole. The finished roll should look like the one to the right. It’s more complicated to try to describe the forming process than it is to form the rolls. After the first couple, you’ll breeze right through without even thinking. Now let the formed rolls rise covered on a sheet. When they are ready to bake, brush them with a whisked egg and one tablespoon water, then sprinkle them with sesame or poppy seeds. You can bake them as you would dinner rolls but if you would like crusty roll like true Kaiser Rolls, follow the direction for breads
Review - Gaumarjos!: Gotanda
The Georgian chef at this tiny bar-restaurant turns out a good range of tasty dishes from his native land, with flavors that are quite exotic for Tokyo. The menu favors the meaty, well-spiced dishes of the Eastern half of Georgia, incorporating plenty of cilantro and other herbs, nuts and garlic. Georgia is also famous for its wines, and several varieties are available by the glass.
On a recent visit we started with a mixed salad platter - an appetizing assemblage of Badrijani (mashed eggplant with garlic and walnuts); Pkhali (spinach paste and walnuts); and kidney bean and walnut salad. Next was a thick, fragrant soup of the day made with rice and eggs, enlivened by a refreshing dash of wine vinegar. The beef stew had a complex tomato-based sauce and good-sized, tender chunks of beef - all good wintertime fare of course, but not unwelcome after a summer day spent in air-conditioned chill.
Lamb shashlik made a great finale - charcoal-grilled with a solid, smoky flavor; well-done but still tender, and well matched to our full-bodied Cabernet. Red, white and sparkling wines are all well represented, starting at Y700/glass or Y3900/bottle.
The tall, oddly shaped space - feeling more like a bar than a restaurant - is encased by double-height windows on two sides and features a big counter bar and a small balcony area upstairs. Geogian pop music videos play nonstop on the big-screen monitor. Dinner with drinks runs around Y3500, and the lunchtime buffet is Y1000.
Review - Cafe Russia: Kichijoji
Authentic Georgian and Russian food is prepared by native chefs in this unpretentious basement cafe. Georgian- and Russian-themed set menus (Y3000-3200 for lunch or dinner) are a good introduction to the kitchen's most popular dishes.
The excellent Geogian menu starts with the wonderfully named "herring in a fur coat," a layered construction of beets, potatoes, finely diced herring fillets, eggs and carrots. Other apps are a spicy ratatouille-style ajapsandali and refreshing, lightly pickled cabbage, followed by khachapuri, a flaky pie stuffed with cheese. The main event is tabaka - a big helping of garlicky roast chicken with crisp skin and succulent, juicy meat. We also enjoyed the eggplant with walnut paste and the kharcho (spicy beef) soup, but perhaps the thick, syrupy Georgian coffee is an acquired taste.
There's also an extensive a la carte menu, and lots to drink (Georgian wines, Russian vodkas). Y1000-range lunch specials are served until 5pm.
New - Little Delirium: Nishi-Shinjuku
This mini-branch of one of our favorite Belgian beer bars sits at the Yoyogi end of Southern Terrace; convenient to Shinjuku station but sufficiently removed from the bustling crowds. Despite the small size they boast an excellent beer list, with a rotating selection of ten on tap, plus a respectable food menu featuring roast Iberico pork, grilled horsemeat and of course mussels and frites. There's some outdoor seating.
Review - Ibiza: Hiroo
Ibiza calls itself a "fisherman's diner," and this unpretentious neighborhood spot offers a great selection of fresh-caught fish and seafood. Simple home-style recipes rely on the high quality of the ingredients rather than showing off any dazzling cooking tricks.
On a recent visit we enjoyed kisu (whiting) fritters flavored with ume and shiso; big portions of miso-simmered ginmutsu (bluefish); and first-rate grilled salmon belly. The hone-sembei (toasted mackerel bones) were crunchy and very tasty, and the cold chunks of cucumber in miso-meat sauce provided nice contrasts of flavor, texture and temperature.
If you're a fan of craft sake you'll probably find something to your liking on the extensive list; they also stock various Chinese liqueurs and ten kinds of umeshu. Budget around Y4000 with drinks. Note that the menus and service are in Japanese only, and the restaurant is quite busy, so bring a Japanese-speaking friend if you're not comfortable negotiating the menu.
Review - Kokekokko: Nishi-Shinjuku
Shamo is a breed of game bird known for its tasty, slightly chewy meat, and it's the bird of choice on the busy grills at Kokkekokko. This modest-looking yakitoriya serves the usual selection of chicken parts on skewers - all very high in quality - along with beautiful grilled vegetables and appealing side dishes, including chicken sashimi. Besides serving birds of distinguished pedigree (always fresh, never frozen), they also take pride in the quality of their charcoal (kishu binchotan from Wakayama) and their gourmet salt (sea salt from Bretagne).
The chicken wings are one of the highlights here, or actually two of the highlights - they offer both tebanaka and tebamoto (meat from the middle and upper wing, repectively), rather than the more common tebasaki. Both are served boneless and are quite juicy and flavorful. The sasami (breast meat) is very rare on the inside, topped with fresh-ground wasabi in tiny dabs that don't overpower the flavor. The tsukune (minced chicken patty) is substantial in size and very meaty, accompanied by a richly flavored, bright-yellow raw egg for dipping.
Lined up on the grill alongside the chicken skewers is an impressive array of vegetables - gigantic shiitake mushrooms, big chunks of eringi mushroom, large cubes of eggplant, and a few things you don't see every day, like baby corn and delicate, gingery myoga buds. Pickles are made from colorful Kyoto heirloom vegetables, prepared with a light touch so that they are fresh-tasting and just barely salty. Other side dishes include liver pate, tataki (chicken seared on the outside, raw in the middle), and a sashimi platter with raw chicken meat and chicken liver. Four premium sakes and a handful of shochu brands supplement the usual beer and chuhai cocktails on the drinks list.
The tiny shop is wedged into a basement corner of a shopping complex, adjoining the Shinjuku station underground (there's a Uniqlo at ground level). Seating is tight but the counter is comfortably wide, the modern decor is tasteful and subdued, and the atmosphere is convivial. The sixteen counter seats fill up quickly, but there's reasonable turnover during the course of the evening if you're a single diner or a pair. Groups can reserve a table in the separate private room, which seats eight. Budget around Y3500-4500 for a dinner-size portion of food and drinks.
Review - Bakuro: Ebisu
If you're not well acquainted with the subtleties of horsemeat cuisine, Bakuro can be a revelation. The food here is fantastic, showcasing a surprisingly wide range of flavors and styles. The atmosphere is lively and fun, the drinks list is well put together, and prices are very reasonable for this level of quality.
Bakuro occupies a narrow two-story residential building filled with antique furnishings and horse-themed bric-a-brac, which contribute to the charming retro-chic ambience. The upstairs dining area, reached via a steep staircase, is especially cozy, with little nooks, bottle-lined bookshelves and an artfully hidden toilet. Sitting on a quiet side street surrounded by other tiny drinking spots, it attracts a mostly young and well-dressed crowd - even by Ebisu standards.
The horsemeat here comes raw, charcoal-grilled, and served sukiyaki-style.....
Review - Paris 4ku: Nishi-Shinjuku
The setting here is bistro-style (closely spaced tables and a counter) and very casual, but the food is a cut above the usual bistro fare, with dishes like beef cheeks and anago eel stewed in red wine; sauteed fish in grapefruit sauce; game-meat pies; and well-prepared steak frites. Three-course prix-fixe dinners are Y3980, or you can order a la carte. Wines are fairly reasonable and not exclusively French.
Review - Esquina Brasil: Nakano
This casual cafe-bar serves Brazilian-style burgers and snacks - coxinha (deep-fried chicken dumplings), empadao (pot pies), empanada (stuffed pastries), feijoada (pork and bean stew), and churrasco (grilled meats). Fruit juice smoothies (Y500) come in a variety of tropical flavors - Andean blackberry, acai, guanabana and many more - or you just can add tequila or rum to create exotic fruit cocktails.
Review - Sasaratei: Nishi-Ogikubo
This lively neighborhood drinking spot is a branch of the long-established Fujintei izakaya a few blocks away, and the spacious, comfortable second floor is the place to be. The menu is disarmingly eclectic - Taiwanese sausage, charcoal-grilled prawns, shashlik kebabs made from premium Yamagata pork - and everything we've tried has been first-rate. The sake list is small but serviceable - this is the kind of place where you find a label you like and stick with it, rather than exploring different breweries.
Review - Kojiro: Uchisaiwaicho
Seafood is the star at this reasonably priced counter shop - the owner is a fisherman and he often serves his own catch alongside the daily selections from Tsukiji. The sake list is well above average for a place this size: five regular labels plus five guest slots reserved for seasonal brews. Lunch is a great deal - Y900 gets you an excellent kaisen donburi with anago, salmon and negitoro. Dinner runs around Y3500 with drinks.
New - Breadworks: Tennozu Isle
Luxuriously spacious and modern in feel, this combination bakery-cafe is a comfortable place to relax with a coffee and pastry, or a quiche, cup of soup and salad. There's also a bit of outdoor seating overlooking the adjacent canal. Take-out breads include tempting savory creations like gorgonzola-walnut and bacon-rosemary rolls, as well as focacia, whole-grain loaves, bread made with beer yeast (from TY Harbor Brewery next door) and assorted pastries and cakes.
Brews News #100
Reviews of
Preston Ales
and
Nagano brewpubs
in the July/August issue of our Japan beer newsletter.
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in a steamy oven. To form the thick, chewy crust that is typical of artisan breads, follow these instructions: Place a large, shallow, metal pan in the oven on the lowest shelf. You will pour hot water in this pan to create steam in the oven. High heat is hard on pans so don’t use one of your better pans. An old sheet pan is ideal. Fill a spray bottle with water. You will use this to spray water into the oven to create more steam. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. When the oven is hot and the bread is fully risen and is soft and puffy--being very careful not to burn yourself with the rising steam and with a mitted hand--pour about two cups of very hot water in the pan in the oven. Quickly close the oven door to capture the steam. With spray bottle in hand, open the door and quickly spray the oven walls and close the door. Immediately put the bread in the steamy oven. After a few moments, open the door and spray the walls again to recharge the steam. Do this twice more during the first ten minutes of baking. This steamy environment will create the chewy crust prized in artisan breads. You can use this procedure for crusty hearth breads also. For rolls, bake for ten minutes at 450 degrees then lower the temperature to 350 degrees until done. How long you will bake them will depend on how quickly your oven loses heat but it will probably be about ten additional minutes (a total of 20 minutes). As for all hearth breads, the internal temperature of your crusty rolls should be about 210 degrees. (If crusty rolls are not well baked, the internal moisture will migrate to the crust and make it soft.) Dennis Weaver is the general manager at The Prepared Pantry (http://www.preparedpantry.com) with recipes, ideas, and the best selection of mixes and ingredients. Visit the free Bakers' Library for more articles like this, free guides, and tested recipes.
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